Ready or not, Camino!

A disclaimer: I am having serious tech issues trying to update my blog on an iPad mini. So, the next few weeks my blog posts may be very rudimentary. And few and far between. But I wanted to try and keep it up while I am on the road for those who aren't on Facebook and as a personal remembrance down the line. For those who are willing to put up with it, thank you for coming along and reading. I appreciate it! I hope you will write me (susanmmurphy@yahoo.com) and share what is going on with your life while I am away. A blog can be so one sided. I am having so much fun with my travels, but I sincerely miss everyone at home. I hope life is treating you as well as it is treating me, I feel so blessed to be living out a dream.

Ok, a last note... I can only see about three pictures on the mini, but there may be more. Essentially they fall into three categories: people I've met along the way, gorgeous scenery, and of course lots of hiking. You will either see three or a hundred. It's a toss up at this point as far as I can tell.

Ready or not, Camino!

I left Ecuador on Saturday night and arrived in Atlanta around 7am on Sunday morning when all was said in done. I had to catch a 5p flight to Paris THE SAME DAY so needless to say, my time back home was extremely limited. I rented a car thinking that I would be able to go to both Best Buy and REI during my few hours in Atlanta in order to replace my small camera that was on the fritz and pick up some last minute Camino items. It didn't happen. Packing BARELY happened once my laundry was done and my apartment was somewhat cleaned (sorry Denise). I made it to the airport, but I really cut it close with my flight. I was literally throwing stuff in a bag for my trip. I told myself, ready or not, here I come!

I arrived in Paris and instantly realized my Camino bag was way too heavy. So I started to move things between what I would take on the trail and what I would leave in Paris. I couldn't replace my small camera, so my big SLR would be making the journey with me. All three pounds of camera for the next 500 miles. By the time I was finished, some police action was happening at the airport and no one could leave. I was trying to catch the last train to St Jean Pied De Port (the start of the Camino, close to the Spanish border) at 1228pm. I didn't get into the city until 1130 am and I needed to find the travel agency where I was to store my bag. I was a bit stressed. Fortunately, I know Paris and the agency gave great directions. By the time I made the drop off and took the metro to Gare Montparnasse, it was 1215p. I didn't have a minute to spare. There was a huge line to buy tickets but I made it through and purchased my ticket at 1223p. I had to run to the platform, but I made the train. Of course, I didn't have a seat for the 5 hr journey - but I was on my way. I had to make two connections to get to the start, but when I arrived in St Jean I was so happy to be there. The village was charming, I remembered how much I love France, and there were a million other people hiking the Camino... Instead of feeling nervous I became excited for the journey ahead. All 500 miles of it.

Camino Stage 1: St Jean to Roncesvalles (24km/approximate 15 miles)

I stayed in a hostel full of young Germans. They were up at 5am and hit the trail by 6am. I had ordered breakfast at 630a so there was no point getting up before 6a. Only one other person took breakfast, a German woman named Viola. She commented that "the young ones can go ahead, we can pick up behind them." I liked her a lot already, and she became my first friend on the Camino. We quickly met up with Emma, a young girl from the UK, and Marta, an Italian woman who didn't speak English but knew French. We were to cross the Pyrenees that day, and I was glad to have friends along for the journey. It was a glorious day. The weather was perfect, the scenery was beautiful, and all of my high altitude hiking in Ecuador paid off -I didn't have any problems with the climbs and felt great after the first day. We stayed in the nicest albergue in Roncesvalles and enjoyed a pilgrims meal  at a local restaurant. A great way to kick off the journey.

Camino Stage 2: Roncesvalles to Larrasonoa (27km/approx 16-17 miles)

My feet hurt. My shoulders ache. I stink. But I made it.

The second day was really hard. My body was so sore from the previous day, that I was in pain the entire journey. Fortunately, the terrain was much easier, but it was a bit longer. Emma and I got separated from Viola about halfway through the day and couldn't find her. I felt terrible, like an ice climber who had cut the rope and let one of my buddies fall. We had no way of reaching her. In the end, things turned out ok, but I really hated leaving her on the trail.

Emma and I arrived in Larrasonoa in absolute agony. We were greeted by 6 Dutch men who invited us to a dinner they were hosting. They were nuts and a lot of fun. After we showered, we met up with them and another Italian friend at a local bar. We drank beer to soothe our feet and shared stories.

Later that night, 12 of us (Jesus and his apostles) shared dinner at the albergue. It was so much fun! There were people from all over the world who joined us: the Dutch, a German girl, an Austrian, a Canadian, two Isrealis, three Italians and Emma and I (there were more than 12 by the time the meal was over). After the wine was flowing, we all took turns going around the table and singing our national anthems. I know that this sounds really cheesy, but it was a very nice moment. By far, my favorite night on the Camino.

Camino Stage 3: Larrasonoa to Cizur Menor via Pamplona (21km/approx 12miles)

Emma and I woke up early and made it to Pamplona by 12pm (about 10+ miles away). I had been to Pamplona in 2005 for San Fermin and it was so nice to experience the city again without the haze of alcohol that permeates the running of the bulls. We sat in lovely squares, ate ice cream, and simply relaxed for a few hours. 

My bag is so heavy- I think that is what is causing half of my aches and pains so far on the trail - but I decided to add to the weight and buy a little knitted rooster. He is my mascot on the trail and I am calling him Fernando Camino. I fell in love with him and knew I couldn't walk another step without the chicken by my side. May we make it to Santiago! 

We had to walk another 5km (3 miles) to Ciruz Menor in the blistering Spanish sun. It doesn't matter where you are, the last 5km are the absolute worst. We made it to the albergue around 330p and were so delighted to find Viola there. Back together once again. 

Tomorrow the journey continues... That you for following this slightly incoherent blog post!